The journey from Khorog to Kalaikhum, two important cities in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) of Tajikistan, is a colorful experience. The route offers stunning natural scenery, such as the Panj River that separates Tajikistan from Afghanistan, and a winding route that offers surprises at every turn.
However, challenges such as road repairs, permit checks, and construction projects are an integral part of the journey.
Today’s journey was indeed the longest and most tiring, starting from the start of Ishkashim, followed by a lunch and shopping break in Khorog, before continuing on to Kalaikhum.
Starting from Khorog, one of the first things we noticed was the multiple GBAO permit checks. This document is mandatory for all travelers visiting the GBAO region. Each check was brief but emphasized the importance of regulations in this border region.
About an hour and 15 minutes’ drive, we arrived at the Rushon border crossing. There was a security checkpoint, and this time we had to get out of the vehicle. In other places, you’d usually just sit quietly in your vehicle.
It turns out there’s also a restroom a few dozen meters from the post. I easily recognized the words “Xojatxona” in Cyrillic, with “M” for men and “3” for women. “3” is actually the Cyrillic letter for “Z,” as the word for “female” in Tajik is “3AN,” which is pronounced “Zan.”
Surprisingly, near the restroom, there’s also a large sign with patriotic messages and government slogans. The first is a quote from Emomali Rahmon, which reads: “Protecting and Strengthening National Unity in the Future is the Duty of Every Individual.” Next to it is another image of Tajikistan’s constitution and the commemoration of November 6th as Constitution Day. Next to it is a sketch of the Tajik parliament building and a message from the President.
The journey continues along a road that is sometimes good but mostly dusty and gravelly, with beautiful views of the river and valley.
About half an hour from the post, we arrived at a beautiful bridge, the Spid Id Bridge, better known as the White Bridge. This bridge spans the wide, fast-flowing Bartang River. Its beauty is enhanced by rows of Tajik flags on both sides, fluttering majestically under the blue sky. We stopped for a moment to enjoy the view and capture the moment.
Along the way, the vehicle occasionally stopped on the banks of the Panj River. The water was crystal clear, flowing swiftly between steep cliffs. On the other side of the river, Afghanistan seemed so close, with small villages and simple footpaths. It felt like looking into another world from behind. Window.
Traffic Jam in Vanch and Traffic Restrictions
After 6:00 PM, we arrived in Vanch, an area where a road construction project was underway. The road, still under construction, was filled with heavy equipment, dust, and crowds of vehicles waiting their turn to pass. Apparently, there were scheduled traffic restrictions, which forced us to stop for quite some time.
While we waited, the atmosphere remained lively with the sound of heavy equipment and the busy work of workers. This project is part of Tajikistan’s efforts to improve infrastructure, especially in remote areas like GBAO.
The journey continued along narrow, winding, and dusty roads. Each bend presented its own challenges, from landslides to large potholes that required careful maneuvering.
At one bend, we saw a large tunnel under construction. A sign in kanji (Japanese characters) indicated that the project was being carried out by a Chinese company as part of the Belt and Road Initiative (OBOR). China’s presence in Tajikistan is clearly visible through large infrastructure projects like this.
Our driver, Ibrahim, confidently decided to enter the tunnel. Despite the signs prohibiting entry, he said the tunnel was safe enough and would shorten our travel time.
Initially, the road inside the tunnel was quite good, with adequate lighting. However, after about 2-3 kilometers, we began to face challenges. The unfinished road worsened, with heavy equipment parked along the road and large potholes that only high-traffic vehicles could pass through.
When we reached the end of the tunnel, we discovered it was a dead end. Although the map showed a very short distance to the main road, in reality, the tunnel was still unfinished.
Ibrahim carefully turned the car around and took us back along the old route. It was a nerve-wracking experience, but a memorable one.
As 9 p.m. approached, we finally returned to the main road. It was getting dark, and the journey became increasingly difficult due to the lack of lighting along the route. However, with Ibrahim’s composure and skill, we managed to continue our journey to Kalaikhum and finally arrived safely at our comfortable homestay.
The journey from Khorog to Kalaikhum was a perfect combination of natural beauty, technical challenges, and unexpected surprises. From the beautiful Panj River to impressive construction projects, this route provided a vivid glimpse into life in remote Tajikistan.
Although the journey was fraught with obstacles, the experience of crossing the Spit Id Bridge, seeing Afghanistan from afar, and exploring the unfinished tunnels are stories that will always be remembered.
