Indonesia has only recently become familiar with high-speed trains. The Jakarta-Bandung route officially began testing in September 2023, but was still free for a limited number of passengers. Back home, high-speed trains feel like a leap forward. But in Uzbekistan, high-speed trains are no longer a novelty. Since 2011, they’ve had the Afrosiyob, a Spanish-made Talgo train that can reach speeds of up to 250 km/h, covering more than 600 kilometers between Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara, plus a branch to Karshi.
Our journey that day began at Tashkent Airport. After a short break at a small bistro on Babur Street—Bistro Bek, as it was called—we continued our journey to Tashkent Vokzal, the main station also known as Tashkent Shimoly (North Tashkent). The city has two major stations: Shimoly in the north and Yuzny in the south.
We departed for Samarkand on Afrosiyob No. 776, scheduled for 8:24 a.m., with a brief stopover in Samarkand at 10:44 a.m. Excited, we arrived at the station at seven a.m. There was still some free time to enjoy the atmosphere.
The main station building stood majestically, its architecture captivating with Persian and Turkish influences. Above the building was the inscription “Toshkent Vokzal Toshkent”—the spelling “Toshkent” is indeed Uzbek, not “Tashkent” as we’re used to. Right in front of the station, a colorful flower garden greeted us, complete with a beautiful fountain. It felt more like a botanical garden than a train station, if only the pile of suitcases nearby weren’t for us.
Not far from the station gates was the entrance to the Tashkent Metro, a source of pride for the city since the Soviet era. Tashkent was the first city in Central Asia to have a metro network, and its stations are renowned for their beauty. The metro station directly connected to the Tashkent Vokzal also happens to be called Tashkent Station, located on the Ozbekiston Line, which is light blue on the map.
About an hour before departure, we entered the station area. Security checks are similar to airport checks: tickets, passports, and luggage are X-rayed. However, if there are a lot of passengers, ticket and passport checks can be lax. Some of our colleagues even got through without being checked.
Afrosiyob tickets are e-tickets printed in three languages: Uzbek (Elektron Chipta), Russian (Elektronniy Bilyet), and English (Electronic Ticket). Complete information is listed: passenger name, passport number, class, carriage number, seat, SID (seat) code, ticket price, schedule, and refund policies.
The waiting area is quite comfortable, with a souvenir shop, cafe, and small kiosk. I only bought a bottle of mineral water for 3,000 sum—around Rp 4,000, although more expensive than outside the station, but still affordable.
As departure approached, the train was ready on the platform. The flight attendants stood to greet us, both friendly and dashing. We took a quick photo in front of the locomotive bearing the Uzbekistan Railways logo, emblazoned with the words “Afrosiyob.” The group was divided: most of us were in carriage 3, while my wife and I sat in a different carriage because we had only gotten our tickets the day before. Even that was a struggle, as during the peak season (August–October), tickets sold out quickly.
The price for a Tashkent–Samarkand ticket was 105,000 sum, or around Rp133,000—a bargain for a nearly 300-kilometer journey in two hours. Tickets could be purchased online through the official Uzbekistan Railway website 45 days before departure. There were also tickets available for sale five days before departure. If you go through a travel agent, the price could double.
At 8:24 a.m. sharp, the train departed Tashkent. Inside, a digital screen displayed the speed. Initially, it was 80–100 km/h around town, then increased to 130–150 km/h, and on the straights reached 230 km/h. Although it didn’t reach 250 km/h, it still felt smooth and fast.
Several flight attendants handed out snacks—bread with Afrosiyob’s image on the packaging. A restroom car was available for those who wanted a more serious meal. The atmosphere inside was calm; the seats were comfortable in a two-by-two configuration. Several local families sat around us, their young children providing entertainment throughout the journey.
Without realizing it, more than two hours had passed. Samarkand Station welcomed us with a magnificent building, larger and more beautiful than Tashkent. This is where our journey beyond the historic city’s borders began.
And regarding the name Afrosiyob, according to Daniyor—our guide in Samarkand—there are two versions. First, Afrosiyob is the name of a king and sorcerer in ancient Persian legend. Second, this name refers to a historical site north of Samarkand, a former settlement from 500 BC to the 13th century, before the Mongols came and destroyed the city.
Like a train traveling along a long track, life’s journey is always full of surprises. Sometimes we’re stuck in waiting rooms, sometimes we’re rushing to catch tickets that are almost sold out, sometimes we’re sitting comfortably in a two-person seat, enjoying the desert scenery. It’s all part of the journey.
Riding the Afrosiyob in Uzbekistan reminded me that modernity can coexist with history.
