Here, gentle breezes caress surfers’ bodies, soaring melodies from the strings of the Sasando, and lulling explorers to beautiful beaches.
Text & Photos: Valentino Luis
Among the tens of thousands of islands in Indonesia, Rote is designated as the outermost boundary of Indonesia’s southernmost region. It’s no wonder its name is often mentioned in Indonesian geographical identifications. However, the number of people who know it and have visited it probably pales in comparison to the frequency of its mention.
Its remoteness from Jakarta contributes to the reason why this 1,280.10 km2 island is rarely visited. Ironically, travelers from the Land of the Kangaroos, whose country happens to be so close to Rote, often choose this island as a haven for relaxation, with its quiet beaches and rolling waves ready to lull surfers into rapture.
The influx of Australian tourists and surfing enthusiasts has brought Rote into the ranks of new tourist destinations, often included on lists of “hidden places.” As a result, strategic tourist spots have begun to develop facilities such as villas and resorts, although the best ones are generally owned by foreign investors and are priced in US dollars.
Since 2002, Rote (or Roti during the Dutch colonial period) has been established as an autonomous regency. Previously, it was part of the Kupang Regency administration in East Nusa Tenggara. Rote is surrounded by 96 small islands, only six of which are inhabited. The capital is Ba’a, easily reached by ferry or regional flight from Kupang.
Approximately eight indigenous tribes inhabit Rote: the Dela Oenale, Ringgou, Bilba, Dengla, Dhao, Lole, Termanu, and Tii. They are scattered according to the cardinal points. The residents’ livelihood is generally livestock farming, supported by the natural conditions, which are monopolized by grasslands.
The silence of most areas has made this island steeped in myths and legends. Many places are considered haunted and should not be visited carelessly. With the passage of time and infrastructure development, these hidden areas are slowly being revealed. As an adventurer or photographer, visiting rarely visited places like Rote is a privilege, where experiencing authenticity and being immersed in the simplicity of nature and culture is like stepping into a time warp.
Lontar Palm, a Marker of Identity
Land of Tii Langga, Air Gula Island, and Bumi Sasando. These are some of the nicknames attached to Rote. But there is one nickname that seems to be able to sum up all of them: “Nusa Lontar.”
The reason is simple: whether Sasando, Tii Langga, or Air Gula, they all originate from one staple: Lontar. This type of palm tree grows abundantly on Rote. The centuries-old symbiosis between the Rote people and the palmyra palm has produced a thick, sweet liquid, the melodious tinkling of a zither-like instrument, and an artistic headgear.
The distinctive Rote hat, Tii Langga, is considered one of the most captivating traditional hats in Indonesia. Its futuristic design, made from palmyra leaves, is unlike any other traditional hat. At first glance, its size and width resemble a Mexican sombrero, but the curve and front “antennae” are exquisite and authentic.
The Tii Langga is said to be a work of art resulting from a collaboration between local residents and 16th-century Portuguese sailors. Seeing this hat worn by Rote men, especially while riding horses or herding cattle in the fields, inevitably brings to mind American cowboy movies. This is especially true given the island’s hilly topography, with grasslands covering 80% of its land area.
We’re exploring another of Rote’s riches: Sugar Water, or locally pronounced Ae Gula, which is a side business for Rote farmers. With globalization, sugar water stalls are becoming rarer on the roadsides. This sugar water is usually sold in jerry cans, a thick liquid with a honey-like color and aroma. Photographing the sugar water-making process, from climbing the palm trees to cooking it, can create a unique story in the photos.
When we talk about lontar palms and Rote, we can’t separate it from one of Indonesia’s iconic traditional musical instruments, the sasando. This plucked instrument has been used in Rote since the 7th century. Sasando literally means “vibrating object.” Rote folklore tells that the sasando was created by a young man named Sangguana, who was stranded on Ndana Island. When brought to the king by the villagers, Sangguana and the king’s daughter fell in love at first sight. As a condition of their marriage, he was asked to create a unique musical instrument.Sangguana agreed, and through a dream, he discovered a way to create a musical instrument, later named the Sasando. The woven palm leaves on the Sasando function as resonance.
Exploring the Beaches
As a tropical island, Rote is surrounded by a coastline of coral and beautifully curved sand. Beach enthusiasts will feel at home here, especially since most of the beaches are pristine and uncrowded. Rote’s sloping north-south alignment allows photographers to capture perfect sunsets and sunrises. The island’s small size makes it easy to capture both moments in one day.
In the vicinity of Baa town, there are two legendary beaches: Termanu Beach and Tiang Bendera Beach. These can be immediately memorable if you’re visiting Rote for the first time. Termanu Beach, for example, is located approximately 5 km west of the city center and has become a Rote landmark thanks to its photogenic location and the mythical granite rocks there: Batu Hun and Batu Suelay, which locals believe represent male and female genitalia. The best time to visit is at dusk, as the sunset is spectacular, adorned with horses grazing on the small hills.
Tiang Bendera Beach is quite mysterious, with its historical background: it was once a Dutch guard post that was attacked by local fighters, hence the name Tiang Bendera (Flagpole), referring to the heroic hoisting of the Red and White flag, which resulted in casualties. The topography is rocky, but the sea is calm, and the sunsets are perfect.
A visit to Rote wouldn’t be complete without visiting Nemberala Beach. In fact, Rote’s international fame stems from the fishing village on the west side of the island. Foreign tourists visiting Rote truly seek out Nemberala. It’s a surfer’s paradise. Their activities in the rolling waves are worth capturing against the backdrop of white sand and the shade of lush coconut trees.
Nemberala Beach’s neighbor, Bo’a Beach, is also a popular surfer’s haven. Aesthetically, Bo’a is more beautiful than Nemberala because its beach is wider, flanked by jutting coral reefs. The waves are also more powerful, and the surfers can be clearly observed. The presence of Umbrella Rock, a beach decorated with umbrella-shaped coral, and Crescent Bay, a crescent-shaped bay with pristine white sand on the east side, make Bo’a a must-visit. So, when are you going to Rote?
