“Welcome to Samarkand,” was the warm greeting from Daniyor, our local tour guide, as he picked up the group at Samarkand Vokzal, the city’s main station. The 25-year-old was charming, spoke nearly perfect English, and immediately made a great first impression.
At first glance, Daniyor’s appearance reminded me of my first visit to Istanbul two decades ago.
“In Indonesia, all young Turks, even taxi drivers, could be telenovela stars,” commented Mbak Naniek when we visited Turkey. Daniyor reminded me of that remark. His face confirmed that Uzbeks still share a close bond with the Turkish nation, both ethnically and genetically. However, Mongolian influences are also often evident in the appearance of Central Asians.
“Besides being a tour guide, my real profession is actually a doctor,” Daniyor said confidently. He then asked each member of the group to introduce themselves: Mr. Hendra and Mrs. Henny, Mrs. Ellen and Samuel, the quiet nephew, the obstetrician couple, Mr. Fadoli and Mrs. Wid from Malang, Grace the adventurer from Tomohon, my wife and me, and Mr. Agus, our travel companion.
A Legendary City on the Silk Road
On the way from the station to the hotel in the Afrasiyab area, Daniyor explained that Samarkand is more famous worldwide than his own country, Uzbekistan. I was reminded of Bali, which was known to global tourists before Indonesia.
For me, visiting Samarkand was a dream come true. This city, a jewel of the Silk Road, has been a favorite of mine, and I’ve often read about it in history books and novels. One such example is Hugh N. Kennedy’s The Great Arab Conquest: How the Spread of Islam Changed the World We Lived in, which depicts how the Arab conquests of the 7th and 8th centuries transformed the face of Central Asia, or Transoxania.
From behind the van window, Daniyor briefly recounted the Arab conquest, the spread of Islam, the arrival of the Mongols, and the rise of Amir Timur, who made Samarkand the capital of his empire. Then, the period of its accession to Russia, the Soviet era, and finally, independence. Today, Samarkand is the capital of Samarkand Province and the second largest city in Uzbekistan after Tashkent, with a population of around one million.
The City’s Face and the White Chevrolet
Daniyor pointed to a row of 4-5 story buildings along the street. “Almost all of them are painted yellow-brown. In the old city of Samarkand, skyscrapers are prohibited. Tall buildings are only allowed outside the historic area,” he explained.
I also noticed that most of the vehicles on the road were white Chevrolets. Apparently, the Uzbek government granted Chevrolets a monopoly and special subsidies. The color white was chosen because it better withstands the scorching summer heat.
From the Registan to the Ulugh Beg Madrasah
On the first day, Daniyor took us along University Boulevard, the Statue of Amir Timur, the Gur-i Amir, or Amir Timur Mausoleum, to Registan Square—the heart of this historic city.
At the Ulugh Beg Madrasah, I had a private conversation with him. He told me about life in Uzbekistan, his father’s experiences during the Soviet era, and his education at the Faculty of Medicine at Samarkand State Medical University. As a young doctor at a polyclinic, his income was minimal. Therefore, he supplemented his income by working part-time as a tour guide. Uzbekistan’s growing tourism, especially with the ease of visas, presented him with great opportunities.
Traces of China and Sukarno
While passing along University Boulevard, Daniyor pointed out the new campus, a collaboration with China. There was also the Confucius Institute, where students study Chinese language and culture.
The conversation with him was made even more interesting by his extensive knowledge. He even touched on President Sukarno. It is said that in 1956, Nikita Khrushchev invited Sukarno to the Soviet Union. Sukarno agreed, provided he located the tomb of Imam Bukhari.
Upon arriving at the tomb complex, Sukarno reportedly took off his shoes, crawled closer, prayed, and recited verses from the Quran. This story remains legendary to this day, making Sukarno and Indonesia famous in Uzbekistan.
A Colorful First Day
We spent a full day traveling from shared vans to walking, then using the online taxi app Yandex. Each time, the group was split into three cars. Daniyor was in one, Mas Agus in another; I usually went in a separate car because I was considered to speak some Russian.
Although my Russian skills were limited, it was still helpful to compliment the Mercedes Benz taxi we were in—a luxury compared to a Chevrolet—or to chat briefly with the driver about his family. The friendly Uzbeks were palpable.
Our first day in Samarkand ended with a lasting impression: the friendliness of the people, the grandeur of history, and warm conversations with Daniyor, who was not only a guide but also a mirror of contemporary Uzbek life. In this legendary city on the Silk Road, past and future blend in a captivating way.
